Ah, the collar. So important and so oft over looked. When you buy a shirt you must keep in mind how you plan on wearing it. Will you be wearing it with a tie, bow-tie, open, with a suit or sports jacket? Are you trying to give off a business, formal, or casual look? And for the trendier among you, tie width and lapel width. All of those reasons are why choosing the right collar atop your shirt is so important, so let’s begin.
In choosing the correct collar for you, you must first consider the shape of your face. The collar provides the frame for both your shirt and your face. If it doesn’t compliment the shape of your face the overall look will not look as Dapper as planned. Strong jawlines should go for a larger proportioned collar. Round soft faces should steer clear of small and short collars.
There are two things to consider with every collar. The point, which includes the width of the collar at the front tip and the spread of the collar.
The Button Down – Comes in two types; The Oxford and the Hidden Button-down. Both are considered to be a less formal collar though the Hidden can be used in dressier occasions. This shirt is most suitable to be worn with Sports Jackets and Blazers.
The Straight-Point Collar – Fits most average size Dandi’s and has a much smaller gap between the collar points. It can be worn without a tie as well. Fit size for Dandi’s will usually land in the 14″ to 15 1/2″ range, but measure your neck to be sure and then buy a size 1/2 an inch bigger.
The Spread Collar – This collar gets dressier as the spread widens to accommodate tie knots from the most basic four-in-hand to the very powerful Windsor. This collar comes in many different spreads, point lengths, and collar heights. You will have to try them on and find the right one that frames your face the best.
The Rounded or Club Collar – Seen in many fashion magazines for the 2011 Summer dress shirts, it is a short rounded collar. This collar can lend itself to being a nice Bespoked Dandi touch with a tailored suit, tie and silk ‘kerchief.
Photo courtesy of Bindal Cotex