Tag Archives: Dress shirt

Iceberg

Clearly next Spring is about color and lots of it.  I can’t seem to find a collection that isn’t almost drowning in it.  Iceberg has a lovely collection for 2012 that will fit the more conservative taste of those of my readers who are not so keen on wearing loud and colorful prints on their clothing.

Okay, this suit is definitely not the norm but it’s not a big ole flower either and the steel blue would flatter many different skin tones.  I love it with the lighter blue sweater and it would work well with a fitted spread collar dress shirt and a print tie (yes I said print!) in a darker blue or even rust color depending on the color of your shirt (not white!)

Iceberg has a very European casual Dandi look to it so I wouldn’t waste a lot of time trying to dress it up.  This collection is better worn on the weekends or on vacation.  I actually like the monochromatic look of this blue outfit; the shirt, belt, pants and shoes.  It is quite daring but not impossible to pull off for the right Dandi.  If it’s something you’ve never tried before I’d break it up with maybe a white linen pant and some white Bucks, but then the next time do it all in blue, chalking your new look up to expanding the  possibilities of the Dandi that you are.

photo’s courtesy of:

stylisheve.com

theskinnybeep.com

limewedge.net

Advertisements

The Groom

WAY TO GO NEW YORK!!  Well now that that’s out of the way let’s talk Tuxedos.  Why?  Because I know a lot of us Dandies are going to be dropping down to one knee and asking our beautiful girls to be our one-and-only’s and while they go off to find that perfect wedding dress (our suit) we need to show up looking sharper than we’ve ever looked before.

Renting a Tux is one way to go but you do not want to look like you’re going to the prom on your wedding day.  But tuxedo rental is certainly the most economical way to suit up the Dandies in your wedding party.  But if you’re the Groom, it’s the biggest fashion day of your life so dont’ rent your tux, buy it and have it tailored to fit your body impeccably.  Even if you are on a tight budget you can buy a very nice used designer tuxedo for around the same price you can to rent one three more times.  I know you plan on only getting married once, but there will be many other occassions (like other weddings) to wear it to so why not be the cool Dandi that looks elegant in their formalwear everytime.

The Fit

Those of us bigger Dandies should get a two or four button double-breasted jacket.  Again, get your jacket and pants tailored to fit your body.  If you are going to bind be sure and wear it the day of the fitting (if it isn’t something you always wear).

The Style

Again all black is the most elegant.  Actually if you can get a midnight, let me repeat, midnight (not navy or royal) blue tux.  It reads richer and blacker than black which can sometimes look harsh green in the wrong light.  If you want to wear Tails do it!  But take it all the way and get your top-hat to match your pants, wear fitted gloves (white or grey) and get spats for your shoes.  In the case of Tails, go ahead and rent.  Unless you are a might eccentric they will not work in every formal occassion and won’t be worth the expense.

Accessories

As I mentioned in The Style you can get a top-hat, gloves, spats, but then there is also the cumberbund or vest, bow-tie or traditional tie, jewelery like a watch chain, cuff-links or tie-clips.  Add a handerchief in your jacket pocket that contrasts with your shirt and/or add a flower to your lapel for added style.  Play around with these ideas, remember to be yourself inside of this formal presentation.  It is important not to lose the essence of who you are.

The Shirt.

What I love most about this picture of Darren Criss in this Prada one button tuxedo is the shirt.  To me when it comes to the shirt the last thing you want to wear is an actual tuxedo shirt.  Here is your chance to really make the look your own.  I feel there is very little you can do wrong here and once you pick the shirt you can accessorize with the ideas above to make the look complete.  The shirt is also a great way to continue to wear your tuxedo for years to come and always have it look totally different.

Photo courtesy of GQ

I know you want to look nice for your bride and impress your bois so give your special day the attention and care you deserve. you want it to fit.


The Linen Shirt

Linen is a summer must have and now that the heat is on it is time to buy that cool, stylish shirt that will keep you looking dapper and not over heated.

Linen has always been considered a luxury material and has been around for a long time.  It is used in many types of clothing and accessories from handkerchiefs to shirts to incredibly stylish suits that can be worn for work as well as for play.

Long sleeve or short the current styles in linen shirts range from solid colors to checks and are mainly in neutral muted colors.   These shirts go great with khaki’s or jeans and any shoe where no socks are required.  Also linen, both in shirts and suits, makes a wonderful travel companion because it’s allowed to be wrinkled.  So pack it up,  pull it out and it, like a true friend, will be ready to go.

 

Photo courtesy of J. Crew

 


Black on Black

One of the most elegant ways to dress is to work a complete outfit of black on black.  It is striking, slimming and gives the wearer an air of confidence that no other color in the spectrum can acheive.

Every Dandi should coordinate a black on black outfit for every season and formal occasion.  When creating your look be aware that fabrics absorb color differently and you want to be very careful when trying to match blacks.  The black color in clothes can carry a purple, brown or grey cast so be careful in mixing and matching, the wrong  hue and can dilute your look.

Mix different fabrics and textures to avoid a uniform look and when matching your black shirt or tie to your black suit use the textures in the tie and the design of the shirt to give your palette contrast and approachability.

Now that we are in the summer months the lighter weight the fabric the better,  that said cotton can be a challenge because it fades easily so always hand wash or dry clean your these black items (even if laundered get them dry cleaned, not washed) and rarely if ever put them in the dryer.  If you do decide to wash them always use cold water.

If you feel the urge to add jewelry, keep it minimal.  A watch or ring will do the trick.  Avoid shiny jewelry around your neck, let the black speak for itself.


Be Daring

Want to show off those guns you’ve been working on all winter?  Here is a look that is both eye-catching and sexy.  The sleeves on the jacket are actually designed to be short, they are not rolled up.  This designer jacket is thousands of dollars but this look can be easily achieved with the right light weight jacket and a good tailor.  Compliment the look with a long sleeve dress shirt and roll the sleeves tightly.

Once you have this jacket you will want to pull it out for special occasions as well.  You can dress it up with a tie or bow-tie.  Keep it fun with a contrasting pant and if you don’t have any this short just give them a roll or two.  Definitely keep your socks in the drawer and pull out your favorite Dandi shoes to put on that dapper touch.  And should your budget afford, this Trussardi bag is great for any stylish week-end get-away.

Photo courtesy of Vogue Hommes Japan


The Collar

Ah, the collar.  So important and so oft over looked.  When you buy a shirt you must keep in mind how you plan on wearing it.  Will you be wearing it with a tie, bow-tie, open, with a suit or sports jacket?  Are you trying to give off a business, formal, or casual look?  And for the  trendier among you, tie width and lapel width.  All of those reasons are why choosing the right collar atop your shirt is so important, so let’s begin.

In choosing the correct collar for you, you must first consider the shape of your face.  The collar provides the frame for both your shirt and your face.  If it doesn’t compliment the shape of your face the overall look will not look as Dapper as planned.  Strong jawlines should go for a larger proportioned collar.  Round soft faces should steer clear of small and short collars.

There are two things to consider with every collar.  The point, which includes the width of the collar at the front tip and the spread of the collar.

The Button Down – Comes in two types; The Oxford and the Hidden Button-down.  Both are considered to be a less formal collar though the Hidden can be used in dressier occasions.  This shirt is most suitable to be worn with Sports Jackets and Blazers.

The Straight-Point Collar – Fits most average size Dandi’s and has a much smaller gap between the collar points.  It can be worn without a tie as well.  Fit size for Dandi’s will usually land in the 14″ to 15 1/2″ range, but measure your neck to be sure and then buy a size 1/2 an inch bigger.

The Spread Collar – This collar gets dressier as the spread widens to accommodate tie knots from the most basic four-in-hand to the very powerful Windsor.  This collar comes in many different spreads, point lengths, and collar heights.  You will have to try them on and find the right one that frames your face the best.

The Rounded or Club Collar – Seen in many fashion magazines for the 2011 Summer dress shirts, it is a short rounded collar.  This collar can lend itself to being a nice Bespoked Dandi touch with a tailored suit, tie and silk ‘kerchief.

Photo courtesy of Bindal Cotex


%d bloggers like this: